Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Report Number 10

After a very pleasant stay in Iluka, relaxing and doing some walking on Wednesday, Thursday dawned dull and overcast but cleared later to bright and sunny. We shopped a bit first and met a local ship mechanic Peter and Ruth of "Coral Sea" who are also planning to travel North soon. If they don't we may see if he will do a 100-hour service on Jess' engine when we get back to Iluka. After this we set off up the mighty Clarence River and as the skies cleared and we meandered slowly along through the CALM water we started to remember why we were here - to relax! Even drove from the flybridge because the wind had dropped and all was peace and quiet. The Clarence is an extremely wide and deep river, over 40 nautiacl miles long and has 99 islands in it - more than any other river in the Southern hemisphere and so far we have avoided all of them. We also encountered two vehicle ferries, one of which starts from a hole in the bank where it can't be seen - very tricky when they have absolute right of way and their cables mustn't be crossed when they are in motion! And so we reached Harwood where the sugar mill processes all the cane which grows in the fields along both sides of the river. Anchored there overnight just near the Pacific Highway bridge.

Friday it was back to cloudy and raining but this didn't cause us much discomfort as we set off again and travelled slowly up towards Maclean where we anchored not far from the gurus and another boat we knew. Dinner as planned with Alan and Patricia, Rod and Jane ("Tamahini" from Tasmania), Peter and Denise ("Sea Shell" at Iluka, but travelling by car). Very funny enjoyable night - they were all excellent company. Back to boats (and car) but not before we encountered some of the less desirable locals. All very pleased we were in a group and not on our own.

Saturday dawned clear and sunny. We did a bit of shopping (just food and dull stuff like that) and then set off up the river at about 11.30. About an hour later we stopped beside a very new Clipper 38 - lovely boat - and found Peter and Ruth and another couple Andrew and Ainslie who owned the Clipper. Joined shortly afterwards by Col and Ian who were coming to have lunch with the others. So we ate some of their wonderful prawns and then moved on in the sunshine to Lawrence where we parked at the public wharf near a couple in a campervan. Quiet peaceful night, so we leapt out of bed at around 9 on Sunday and got moving (slowly) towards Grafton. At Ulmarra we said hello to Alan and Trish (getting very familiar with the gurus, aren't we?) and reached Grafton about midday when the cold wind dropped and it was a real picture perfect day. Some more light maintenance, Rod and Jane motored past on their way to Ulmarra to meet up with Alan and Trish.

Monday we played tourists - looked around Grafton, took photos of the avenue of big trees (they are BIG!) then set off under sunny skies to Ulmarra where we went ashore and took lots of photos of the restored village (one of the State's best) and then on towards Lawrence again. Must have liked Ulmarra 'cos we ran aground there! Had waited 5 minutes for the ferry to cross (this is the one that leaps out of a hole in the bank) and obviously took my eye off the depth finder. Ferry stopped, opened the throttle wide - and stopped! Took over 5 minutes to free the old girl, at which time the ferry had gone across again and was on its way back. Waited again until it docked and then made a successful exit from Ulmarra. Lawrence overnight for another quiet night - well, it would have been if we hadn't set the alarm for 1.30am to get up. start the generator, and watch the Socceroos lose!

Tuesday (today) up a bit groggy at around 9, wandered along the sunny waters to Maclean where we anchored. Karen took a load to the laundromat while I did some tinkering with the engine and things. Had lunch at a pub in town - roast beef for $6! I bought a book of Greek myths at St Vinnies and we went back to Jess to goof off. Andrew called in to say hello, otherwise all quiet. Will probably head back to Iluka tomorrow, but will certainly be re-visiting this area in the future.

Love

Karen and Warwick

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Report Number 9

Settled in at Coffs and enjoyed being on a marina - the electricity for lights, hot water and fridges, as well as to charge batteries fully. Friday I looked at the generator to try to find the fuel leak which proved to be elusive and ultimately meant pulling the unit totally to pieces just to get the fuel tank out. Found a small hole in it so tracked down a Honda dealer in Coffs Harbour who could help us. Caught a bus into town only to find that there are no spare tanks in Australia and getting one from Japan will take four weeks. Bought some fuel tank putty, looked around the large shopping area in Coffs and came back to Jess where Karen cooked some local seafood we had bought at the fishermans' coop.

Saturday I reassembled the generator after puting putty in the hole I had found and then a further 4 holes that I found - it seems the whole bottom is falling out of the tank - then taped it all up with magic tape and put the genset back together. We walked to top of Muttonbird Island which provided some spectacular views over the harbour and surrounds but pretty hard work walking against a strong cold wind up a steep hill. Managed to fiddle some more life out of the TV which meant we could watch The Bill and a movie "The Last Detective", which was a really funny British murder mystery, after we had been to the Yacht Club for dinner - lovely meal but zero atmosphere.

Sunday - big day. Carol (neice) met us for lunch and a visit to Jess. Had a truly wonderful day with her and later with her son Steve and his lady Kim. Tomorrow night we will meet her for dinner at the Game Fishing Club which is reputed to do a mean Fisherman's Basket. Weather and tides at this stage indicate that Tuesday morning could be a good time to leave on the next leg to Yamba and Iluka - big day, probably 8 hours, our biggest day yet. However, Monday comes before that and it dawned clear and bright so we cleaned all the windows inside and out and put stuff on them that's supposed to stop them from getting dirty ever again (!!!). Then, as it had rained recently, we went up the Pacific Highway inland to Nana Glen (Oh, did I mention that Carol lent us her car for the day?). Had a great lunch at Kookaburra Cafe and then went to Coffs and ordered all the bits we need for the genset. They will let Carol know when the parts are available and we will decide then what to do about them. Apparently everybody knows that the fuel tank rusts out on Honda generators - even us, now. A 43' Riviera came in next to us on the marina, en route to be traded on a 51' model ($1.1 million - second hand) and Bill Stephens, who delivers these things for a living, called in to say hello and gave us some really good advice about the Clarence River entrance. Had the fisherman's Basket dinner - Very, Very Good!- thanks Jo.

Tuesday - up at 4.25!!!!!!!!!!! Gee, its good being on holidays! Had Jess out in the big water by 5 in the pitch dark. A wonderful experience and the dawn gradually broke, unfortunately it was totally overcast and rain went all around us but not actually on us. The water did not behave as it was supposed to and the trip was very uncomfortable because the swell came from several directions and made Jess pitch and roll continuously. Discomfort is defined as 20 degree roll each side. The rough seas slowed us down and it took well over 10 hours to complete our 8 hour trip. Pulled in to Iluka and anchored then had a celebration drink. We were next to the same people who were our neighbours in Coffs, and not far from the gurus whom we had parted from in Port Macquarie. They left on Wednesday morning after setting up an appointment with us for Maclean Chinese Cafe for Friday night. We just did some checking and maintenance bits and pieces, minor shopping at the general store, and generally goofed off.

Love

Karen and Warwick

Monday, June 12, 2006

Report Number 8

Trip Report #8

Sunday 11th to Tuesday 13th we stayed in Port Macquarie. Karen's mum has recovered quite well and has returned to the nursing home from hospital, much to our relief. Much of the time we did the tourist thing - eating at cafes, visiting the attractions like the old sailing ship "Alma Doepel" (don't spend time trying to translate the name - it was built by a guy called Doepel and named after his daughter!). Also, of course, we spent A LOT of time with our new friends the gurus Alan and Patricia :). I also replaced the stereo AM/FM with a new one because the old one was no longer reliable.

Wednesday dawned clrad and sunny with a good forecast for today and Thursday so we upped the anchor (so to speak) and set forth for Trial Bay and South West Rocks. Naturally, we ran aground on the way out as we always do to show our respect for places where we have enjoyed staying. Cleared the bar (no, Ian, that's the technical term for sand that biulds up across the entrance!) at 10am and after our usual slightly bumpy trip we arrived at Trial Bay at 4pm. Tied up to a mooring in th middle of the bay and settled in for the night. Well, sort of settled in - the swell was coming in across the boat causing a constant rolling, but, hey, what do you expect on a boat? Will try a new website tonight "Buoyweather" which David at Port Marina showed us. It is American but extremely good from his experience. We checked it during our low-cost 6-7 time slot and it said tomorrow will be fantastic, so it really is a great site! Tried to watch State of Origin II but reception was just too poor to see anything, anyway, glad we didn't watch the Maroons win!

Up early - well, 7-ish on Thursday, and under weigh by quarter past. Seas bit bigger than expected and icy breeze made the start a little uncomfortaqble. BUT then the seas died right down to a supposed 1 metre wave on 1.5 metre swell, but I think they exaggerated because it was really smooth and the sun was getting a lot warmer, so by 10.30 we were driving from the flybridge and by 12 noon we were sunbaking on the front deck! Jess, of course, behaved beautifully and just kept going in the straight line where we had pointed her. Although she did give us some little worry when we saw paint lifting from small areas just above the water level along the side. Ignored it, naturally, what else could we do?, and pressed on to Coffs Harbour where we dropped anchor at 1.30. Had a few minutes settle down time and then took the dinghy in to the marina to talk to Val Crawley (name dropped David O'Brien from Port Marina) and managed to get a berth. It is actually for much larger boats than Jess and we may have to move if a big one comes in, but that's OK with us. Popped Jess in and went for a walk around the marina and surrounds. Found a few shops and a nice-looking restaurant and the yacht club. Karen had a long phone call from work and I rang my neice Carol and arranged to meet her and hers for lunch on Sunday. Weather is forecast to turn pretty ugly tomorrow night, so we paid for a week here and will leave when it looks like being pleasant out there.

Thanks again to all those who have written,

Love

Karen and Warwick

Saturday, June 10, 2006

Report Number 7

Thursday 8th.Unfortunately I was notified this morning that my mother, who is living in a nursing home, had to be admitted to hospital for a blood transfusion. My sister was able to accompany Mum for the 3 days and although she is very unwell she has improved considerably and is returning to her nursing home tomorrow (Sunday). I may well need to return to Sydney sooner than expected.Left the beautiful Laurieton about 1.30 pm and arrived at Port Macquarie about 4.00pm. (I did remember your advice Lou about the bar at Port Macquarie, but we did the homework and we felt OK about the bar - fortunately the crossing was smooth and uneventful). Port Macquarie! Suddenly both of us realised that we really were on our big adventure. All the way so far we had used a book (Cruising the NSW Coast) by Alan Lucas to help us. It covers every city, town, village, hamlet and bay on the coast and shows the best approach from North and South, potential dangers, moorings, anchorages, facilities and points of interest for each. So when we reached each landfall it all looked and felt very familiar. We have another of Alan's books - Cruising the Coral Coast - which will take us up the Queensland coast. WELL!!!! Not only was our mooring next to their yacht, BUT ALAN AND HIS WIFE PATRICIA CAME TO VISIT AND HAD AFTERNOON TEA WITH US!! The gurus themselves who have been sailing up and down the coast for 40 odd years also took us for a walk on Saturday morning through bushland at Port Macquarie. Any other news (except Karen's Mum) pales into insignificance beside this, however we did have quite a good trip from Laurieton to Port, staying in closer to the coast, almost within jumping distance rather than swimming distance. Charles at Laurieton had given us some advice about the bar, so we had little trouble with it (thanks, Charles!). We bought fuel when we arrived at the marina, organised a mooring and met David O'Brien who manages it - a more pleasant and helpful person would be hard to imagine. Had dinner at a Thai restaurant close by which was very, very nice then back to Jess. Friday was fine and sunny with a cool breeze. We went for a walk, had a look around and did a few odd jobs. Warwick wandered around the chandlery at the marina (BIAS it aint!). Seafood dinner at Scampi's restaurant because it was the second Friday of the month and that's when the BWMYC have their meeting dinners. Saturday dawned fine and clear for our 7.30 am walk with the gurus who are both delightful relaxed and entertaining people. We walked through the bush along the river and through a flying fox colony and then sat in a coffee shop for an hour or so chatting - and drinking coffee. We returned to the marina about 11.00 ish and then the weather turned cold and wet - real hot cocoa weather, so we stayed inside and did catch-up things.The weather forecast indicates that we may well be staying in Port Macquarie until around Tuesday next week when we will then head off to Trial Bay for another stop and then Coffs Harbour. But, as usual, actual travel arrangements will be made as conditions arise.LoveKaren and WarwickPS. Thanks to those who have replied to our emails. One of these days we will find an internet cafe close to our mooring and actually reply to you individually. Meanwhile, keep those phrases like "navigational wizardry" and "marine mastery" rolling in. Be assured that our egos are big enough to handle them!

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Report Number 6

Continued to explorue Tuncurry and Forster, but weather was not pleasant. Ventured out in dinghy - briefly then returned to the dryness and warmth of Jess. Met Andrew and his daughter Lilly who called in to say hello. Andrew is a plumber and like all plumbers on the water is a very nice guy. In fact, he turned up again next morning to fix a tap which had been leaking for a couple of days, well, since I had pinched an inch of the copper tube from it to bypass the fridge supplementary heat exchanger.

Monday 5th June we decided to get going because the weather forecast was OK but predicted to get bad again on Tuesday. So, as soon as Andrew had fixed the tap (thank you Andrew ) we set out for Camden Haven and Laurieton. The timing was good because the tides were right for leaving at 9.20 and for arriving at Camden Haven at 4.30. Out we went, with the blessing of Tuncurry Coastal Patrol and found conditions quite pleasant, with half metre waves on a 1 metre swell. However (how many times have I used that word in my reports?), as we travelled along, the waves stayed much the same size but the swell gradually increased to 2 and 2.5 metres, making the journey moderately rough and unpleasant, and the alternator gave notice that it was sick of working if we didn't. But, like the intrepid sailors we are, we pressed on to Camden Haven. On the approach to the ubiquitous bar we radioed the Search and Rescue at Laurieton and they said everything was great and to just come in. Well, it didn't look all that good to us with waves breaking all over the place, but in we came. Then a guy appeared from the entrance in a 16' aluminium runabout and came alongside to offer guidance and ultimately led us into the long entrance channel. Our trouble seems to be that neither of us can see the leads that are provided to guide mariners in. Anyway, we made it OK (with Bushy's help) and headed for the wharf at the Servicemens' Club. It was fully occupied. so we pressed on to a public wharf a bit further on, where a couple of locals (Charles and Linda) magically appeared to help us moor, which was greatly appreciated because the wharves are not the floating type and the tide is about a metre from low to high. Charles and Linda joined us for a welcome drink and then we went to bed early because the day had been a bit wearing. Early next morning (Tuesday) we were awakened by the sound of voices just outside the window which turned out to be three locals fishing from the wharf. Staggered out at about 8 to say g'day and offer coffee. Talked to them about the electrical problem and one immediately offered to drive me to the local auto electrician where I was able to arrange for him to come to the boat later to fix the alternator. We basically sat around waiting for him to come, because I had to lift the floor of the main cabin to provide access to the engine. Eventually he arived, fixed the problem quickly and efficiently, then apologised for having to charge me $30!! Ran the motor for an hour or so to charge the batteries. Saw Charles again and he invited us for dinner (or I invited us - its hard to say!) which was simply magnificent. Linda had been at work all day but managed to turn on a three course banquet with little apparent effort. It transpired that Charles is a retired engineer and Linda is a Aged Care worker, so we all had interests in common. Charles was particularly interesting bcause he and his boat "Witchdoctor" have been in 25 Sydney Hobarts (this is equalled by only one other boat and it isn't going this year). As you can imagine, Charles had the odd story or two. We wandered home - about 100 metres - and slept the sleep of the well wined and dined.

Wednesday again dawned dull and cold, so we went to the movies and saw "The Da Vinci Code", had a bit of a look around, lunch at the Servicemens' Club, and back to Jess where we are busy plotting our next step which will be either Port Macquarie or Trial Bay some time possibly soon.

Thanks to all those who have sent messages - we really appreciate them, but just find it difficult to reply to each individually. To members of the BWMYC, please offer our apologies on Friday night, but assure everyone that we will be having a fish dinner to be with you in spirit.

Love to all

Karen and Warwickw